A Masterpiece from Oey Soe Tjoen: Colors and Lines of Batik Hokokai
Among the many exquisite variations of Indonesian batik, Batik Hokokai stands out not only for its intricate beauty but also for its historical roots. Born during the Japanese occupation of Indonesia in the 1940s, hokokai was originally made for the Japanese market. Originating on the north coast of Central Java, in cities like Pekalongan, hokokai combines Japanese aesthetics with the long-standing Javanese and Peranakan batik tradition.
What sets Batik Hokokai apart from other batik styles is its clear Japanese influence, especially in the motifs and overall aesthetic. During the occupation, the Japanese government encouraged local artisans to incorporate Japanese themes into their works. This led to the rise of sushimoyo, the signature floral border pattern in Hokokai batik. These borders often featured flowers reminiscent of sakura or cherry blossoms, delicately scattered across the edges of the fabric.
Other common motifs include butterflies, chrysanthemums, and peonies; dyed in vivid colors like yellow and purple that reflects both Japanese artistic sensibilities and Javanese craftsmanship. The patterns are densely packed, rich in symbolism, and often layered to create a sense of movement and depth.
Another iconic feature of hokokai is the pagi sore design.
Pagi sore divides the fabric into two distinct sections, often with contrasting or complementary patterns. The intention behind this design was practicality; it allowed the wearer to fold or drape the cloth differently, showcasing one side during the day (pagi) and another in the evening (sore). In essence, it was a form of elegant versatility, particularly valued during times when clothing options were limited.
No discussion of Batik Hokokai would be complete without mentioning the legendary Batik Oey Soe Tjoen. Established in the early 20th century, this batik house became renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and unparalleled quality. During the Hokokai era, Oey Soe Tjoen embraced the complexity of the style, producing pieces that were not only visually stunning but also technically masterful.
Every piece of batik produced by Oey Soe Tjoen is hand-drawn (batik tulis) and can take months to complete. Their artisans are trained to maintain the high standards passed down through generations. The color palette used is both vibrant and subtle — deep indigos, rich reds, and soft pastels are carefully layered using natural dyes, ensuring longevity and harmony.
Even today, over a century after its founding, the Oey Soe Tjoen workshop remains active, driven by the passion to preserve a fading art form. In a market increasingly dominated by mass-produced textiles, their commitment to traditional methods stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Hokokai batik.
Recently, four of Oey Soe Tjoen batik from our archive were displayed at the 100 years of Oey Soe Tjoen exhibition; including hokokai batik. Our collaboration with Oey Soe Tjoen has been going strong for over a decade. From a book we wrote together about Oey Soe Tjoen to supporting this exhibition, no words and batik motifs can convey our feelings. Cheers to rediscovering Indonesian culture!
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